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The Oregon Expedition 

of 
Obadiah Oakly 



Expedition to Oregon 



Obadiah Oakly 




Reprinted from the Peoria Register 
New York, 1914 



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(From the Peoria Regisier.) 

The Oregon Expedition 

jNlr. Obadiah Oakley, one of the party who left Peoria in 
^lay for Oregon, returned home on Sunday last, having sepa- 
rated from his companions in the Rocky Mountains. From 
a conversation with him we have gathered the following out- 
line of his journey and adventures. 

The company, it will be remembered, consisted, on leaving 
Peoria, of 15 members. At Quincy they were joined by an- 
other; all of whom reached Independence, Mo., the 20th of 
May, 20 days after leaving Peoria. We presented in July a 
letter from Mr. Farnham, the conmiander of the party, written 
about this time, and another from Mr. Smith, one of the com- 
pany. The narrative now given will commence where the other 
left 'oft". 

At Independence, two more joined the company, one of 
whom, ^Ir. Shortess, had been once before to the ^lountains, 
and nov,- oft'ered to act as guide. He was about 45 years of 
age, and soon proved himself to be of a reckless and unprin- 
cipled character. The other was a young man named Pritch- 
ard, recently from one of the eastern states. Before leaving 
Independence they exchanged their wagon and some of their 
horses for other horses and pack mules. Where these are pur- 
chased the prices are from 60 to 65 dollars. They bought also 
a quantit}' of articles, such as knives, lead, Vermillion, and a 
few trinkets, with which to trade with the Indians. One mule, 
which belonged to the party in connnon, carried their tent, two 
kegs of powder, and a few other articles. The other mules, of 
which each member, for the most part, owned one, carried the 
provisions, clotln'ng and other property of each. The provis- 
ions nmounted to 200 lbs. of flour and 150 lbs. of bacon, be- 



OAKLVS OREGON EXPEDITION 



sides sugar, coffee, tea, and minor groceries. Upon their 
riding horses they carried their rifles, blankets, and some extra 
clothing. 

Thus mounted and provisioned, the company, 18 in num- 
ber, left Independence the 29th of May, on the Sante Fe road, 
which is a distinct wagon track. The first adventure they met 
with was the loss of two horses the following night, while they 
wei'e encamped five miles from Independence. The owners re- 
turned to that town the next day, and recovered them, though 
this ill luck was but the precursor of worse that was to follow, 
as will appear in the sequel. 

Ten miles further, and 15 from Independence, brought them 
to the western boundary line of Missouri, where Mr. Fitzhugh 
resides in a log cabin, and this was the last house they saw 
until they reached some of the posts of the American Fur 
Company. 

A day or two afterwards, when they had reached Elm 
Grove, 40 miles from Independence, and had there encamped 
for the night, they discovered that two other horses were miss- 
ing. As they had doubtless returned to Independence, the 
owners started in pursuit, while the remainder of the company, 
after halting a day at the grove, continued on leisurely, so that 
the absentees might sooner overtake them. This they did, with 
the recovered horses, about a day and a half aftei-wards, and 
the company met with no further delays from this source. 
Their practice at night, after unlading the horses, was to stake 
them in the prairie, i. e., to drive notched stakes into the 
ground, to which they would fix one end of the halter, giving 
the animals sufficient play to enable them to feed in abundance. 
The ground thus far had been soft and mellow, so that the 
stakes were easily drawn by the horses ; but afterwards had 
become harder and firmer, so as effectually to secure them. 

At the Osage river, about 100 miles from Independence, 
the}' were agreeably surprised at meeting a returning party 
who had passed along a few days before them to assist Capt. 



OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION 



Kelly's Santa Fe company, bound to the latter place, over the 
worst part of the road. It consisted of seven wagons, with a 
proportionate number of men. They had assisted the company 
to Council Grove, 50 miles beyond, and were now on their 
return. Though our adventurers had been but a week from 
Independence, during which they had not seen a human being, 
the sight of a fellow countryman now kindled the feelings of 
the warmest sympathy in their hearts, and three of them 
resolved at once to return. They were Orin Garrett and Wm. 
Picket of Peoria, and young Moore of Quincy. Here also 
two Caw Indians, the first of any tribe they had seen, came to 
the camp, and received from the party some trifling presents. 
On the next day they saw 30 or 40 of the same tribe, all of 
whom were very peaceable. They were returning from a hunt- 
ing excursion, and were entireh^ ignorant of our language. 

The Osage river is here about 30 yards wide, and about 
knee deep. It was consequently forded with ease and safety, 
and on returning, Mr. Oakley found it nearly dry. The face 
of the countr}' thus far was a rolling prairie, with no timber 
save a ver}' few small groves at a (hstance from the road on 
the right and left. Two or three inconsiderable streams had 
been crossed, but they also were for the most part destitute of 
timber. 

Parting with the Santa Fe escort next day, the party con- 
tinued on to Council Grove, 50 miles further, which they had 
reached on the 9th of June, 10 days from Independence. The 
distance is 150 miles. They had consequently traveled, includ- 
ing stoppages, 15 miles a day. Here they rested a day to re- 
pair their pack saddles, and other damages. 

On the 12th, while pursuing their journey, they were over- 
taken b}' a tremendous storm, more awful than anything they 
had ever before seen or read of. The thunder was petrifying 
and the lightning appalling beyond description. How they 
escaped with their lives seemed a miracle. Mr. Oakley's gun, 
which he held in liis liand, was struck from liim, and he nearlv 



OAKLVS OREGON EXPEDITION 



thrown from his horse. The others were more or less affected 
by the subtle element. Mr. Oakley thinks more rain fell in 
fifteen minutes than he had ever known to fall here in the se- 
verest storm during a day. The effect of this deluge in swell- 
ing the streams which the party had to cross, will be seen 
hereafter. 

The same evening they overtook Capt. Kelley's company, 
bound for Santa Fe, to which reference has already been had. 
It numbered 14i wagons and 29 men. With them our adven- 
turers were invited to camp for the night, an offer which they 
gladl}' accepted, as they had no wood, nor was a tree to be 
seen. The wagons, however, were plentifully supplied, hav- 
ing brought it with them. No water was to be had save that 
Avhich had fallen a few hours before, which they scooped up 
from pools in the prairie. 

By this time the provisions obtained at Independence were 
nearly exhausted, and they had met with no game to shoot. 
It became, therefore, necessary that the party should divide, 
by choosing hunters to go ahead and procure a supply. 
Messrs. Oakley, Shortess, Jordan and Fletcher, were chosen 
accordingl}', and they set out on the following morning. As 
this portion of his story most abounds in incident, we shall 
give in brief each day's progress. 

June 13. The four hunters, leaving with the main party 
all the provisions, set out, themselves destitute, in search of 
game. They soon saw some elk, two of wliich they wounded, 
but they afterwards escaped. At 4 in the afternoon, when 
within 8 miles of Little Arkansas river, they met a trading 
company, consisting of 30 odd men, and 10 wagons, loaded 
with peltries from the Rocky Mountains, under the command 
of Mr. Bent, who resides at Bent's fort, on the Arkansas river. 
With it were also 200 sheep, bound for a lower market. By this 
compan}' the hunters were kindly treated and feasted for the 
night. Capt. Bent informed them that he had lost from his 
caravan since he left home, 30 mules and 7 horses, which had 



OAKLVS OREGON EXPEDITION 



strayed away, and requested if they found them, to take them 
in charge and leave tlicm at his fort as they passed it. He 
also said they would find plenty of buffalo meat the next day at 
Cow creek. To-night another rain visited the company, but 
little less severe than that already spoken of. 

14*. Separating from the company just mentioned, the 
hunters continued on, and in 8 miles reached the Little Arkan- 
sas. Though about such a stream as the Osage, between 30 
and -iO yards wide, it was now prodigiously swollen, being at 
least 15 feet deep, and running with great velocity. As it was 
impracticable to cross it, the hunters planted themselves leis- 
urely upon its bank, took out their fishing lines, and com- 
menced fishing. In a little while they caught 12 catfish, 
"'fat yellow fellows," — who proved to be of excellent flavor. 
They made a fire on the spot, and proceeded to roast one on 
the coals, and though they had no seasoning, the meal was a 
very grateful one. While thus engaged, three men of Capt. 
Bent's company, who had been left beliind to hunt for the 
stray mules and horses, appeared on the opposite side of the 
river after an unsuccessful search. As the}- were destitute of 
food, and the surest resource lay in overtaking the company 
they had left, the river was to them a feeble obstacle. Imme- 
diately on reaching it, they drove in their horses, who swam 
directl}' across, then stripped themselves and followed their 
example ! One of them, a Spaniard, whom familiarity with 
the water had rendered half am])hibious, took the saddle from 
his horse and held it in one hand, while he swam across with 
the other. They had eat nothing for three days. Another fish 
was consequently laid on the coals and speedily devoured. 
After spending the night together, the hunters sent by the 
strangers some fish to Capt. Bent, and after leaving three of 
the largest in the water for their comrades, when they came 
up, and to which their attention was directed by a signal, they 
prepared to cross the river. 



OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION 



15. The passage across the river was effected in this way: 
^the halters were taken from the horses and tied into a line, 
which Avas found to be in length double the width of the river. 
The horses were then driven across ; after wliich two of the 
men swam over, carrying one end of the line with them. Those 
who remained tied the luggage in a bundle to the rope on the 
edge of the shore, then holding the rope beliind the bundle, and 
letting it slip through their hands as those on the opposite 
side pulled, both parties keeping the rope so well stretched as 
to hold it above the water, the bundle was conveyed safely 
over. The next minute the two remaining men were over and 
all soon under way again. During this day five other streams 
were swam and waded. Nothing escaped being thoroughly 
drenched except the powder, which was carried in small canis- 
ters high on the body. The musketoes were "dreadful." 
Camped at night on Big Cow creek, where Capt. Bent had said 
the}^ would find buffalo, though the}^ did not. 

16. As a supply of meat became more and more desirable, 
the hunters determined to leave their baggage at the spot 
where they had camped, and go forth unencumbered in pur- 
suit of buffalo. After riding seven miles and finding none, it was 
arranged that two should go back for the baggage, and take 
it on to a point named, — Walnut creek grove, — while the other 
two should sweep the country, and meet the others at sundown. 
Oakle^^ find Jordan went back for the baggage, and Shortess 
and Fletcher continued the hunt. As the fonner, in prose- 
cuting their journey, approached the grove about sundown, 
Jordan said he saw the glisten of a gun barrel, and that there 
must be Indians. They stopped to consult, when Jordan was 
for returning; but Oakley said that would be useless, as the 
Indians, if such, must have seen them first, and would speedily 
overtake them. He was therefore for going boldly forward 
and meeting the worst. As they advanced they saw oxen, and 
soon discovered the party to be a company of traders. They 
were bound for Santa Fe, and numbered 93 men and 53 wagons. 

8 



OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION 



Our adventurers met with a severe reprimand from them for 
traveling in the exposed manner they did, subject to be met 
almost hourly by Indians, who would prove hostile or friendly, 
just as their inclination or their wants might prompt tliem. 
After dark, Shortess and Fletcher arrived, without having 
killed auA'thing. The four had been three days with but one 
meal of catfish to cat. With the Santa Fe company, however, 
they once more fared sumptuously. The}^ here discovered the 
reason why they had found no buffalo on and around Big 
Cow creek, as Capt. Bent had told them they would. The Caw- 
Indians, who hovered around and in front of the company, had 
driven them off, that the}' might enhance their value, and by 
killing them themselves, sell the meat at a good price to the 
traders. 

17, Traveled along with the Santa Fe company and pro- 
ceeded only 8 miles. They saw no game during the day save 
one hare, which they shot at and wounded. Camped to-night 
on a prairie without wood. 

18. The four hunters, being somewhat in advance of the 
company, saw seven buffalo bulls and gave chase. They were 
seen by the compan^^ about the same time, and some of their 
best men started also in pursuit ; but Jordan and Fletcher, 
having the best horses, kept ahead. The bulls, as the pursuit 
continued, sejjarated, and fled in different directions ; but one 
was run down after a chase of 21/^ miles by the two hunters 
named, and easily killed. He weighed about 900 lbs. After 
taking the fleece, i. e. the most fleshy parts, weighing about 300 
lbs., and leaving the cai-cass, the}' loaded their horses and re- 
turned to the company. This was the first buffalo they had 
killed, and they found the meat superior in flavor to any they 
had ever eaten. The bulls are far before our domestic cattle, 
and the cows, as they afterwards proved, as much excel them 
as the meat of a tame heifer exceeds that of the male in our 
markets. The flesh now obtained the "jerked," and it lasted 
5 or 6 days. 



OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION 



19. Two of the hunters went back with a portion of the 
buffalo to meet their comrades, from whom they had now been 
separated 6 days. They found them 8 miles back, with nothing 
to eat, having in this interval killed but one antelope. They 
had found the fish also, and had previously met Capt. Bent's 
company. They also had found his stray mules and horses, 
and now had them in company. (On leaving them afterwards 
at Bent's fort, Capt. B.'s brother generously presented the 
company. With two of the mules and 200 lbs. of flour for their 
trouble.) The same day the whole party overtook the Santa 
Feans, who had proceeded but 6 miles from where the two 
hunters separated from them. All encamped that night at 
Pawnee fork. The Caw Indians, before spoken of, had killed 
62 buffaloes, so that provisions were most abundant ; but their 
mode of jerking it was any thing but cleanly, and none of Capt. 
Farnham's party, as they had plenty of their own, partook of 
it. 

20. Both companies continued on together. Capt. Farn- 
ham's hunters killed another buff'alo, and while stopping to 
jerk the meat, some Caw Indians came up, to whom they sold 
a few articles for money, of which they seemed to have plenty. 
The price of a common butcher knife, for which the company 
paid 25 cents at Independence, was out here $1.50. Other ar- 
ticles wore in proportion. 

21. A most dreadful accident occurred this morning. While 
the tent was being struck, and the company preparing to de- 
part, Mr. Smith, in drawing his gun towai'ds liim, the muzzle 
forward, ]jcrmitted the trigger to come in contact with some 
protuberance on his saddle, when it went off immediately in the 
direction of the bottom of the chest. The ball struck one of 
liis waistband buttons and glanced to the left, })cnetrating the 
flesh and severing two of his ribs. He was caught, while in 
the act of falling, by Mr. Oakley, who, on removing his his 
clothing, foun(i the flesh to be dreadfully lacerated and the 
ball lodged near the spine. The Santa Fe company, in which 

10 



OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION 



was a surgeon, — Dr. Walworth, one of the owners, — was about 
five miles aiiead, and thither Mr. O. hastened for assistance. 
Dr. W. returned in his carry-all with a bed, and after extract- 
ing the ball and dressing the wound, put Smith in the carriage, 
in which he was taken onward with comparative comfort. — 
This disaster detained the company till noon, and to make up 
for the detention they travelled till midnight without being 
able to overtake the Santa Feans. At night their progress was 
greatly retarded by the herds of buffalo which lined the road 
and covered the plain. They were as thick as sheep were ever 
seen in a field, and moved not until the caravan was within ten 
feet of them. They would then rise and flee at random, greatly 
affrighted, and snorting and bellowing to the equal alarm of 
the horses and mules. Supposing, from their not overtaking 
the advance compan}', that they had mistaken the road, the 
party resolved, at the hour above mentioned, to encamp. 

22. At daylight they discovered that they had during the 
night taken a wrong road, and b}' turning off in the proper 
direction soon came in sight of and joined the advance party. 
To-day, for the first time, they used the dung of the buffalo 
for fuel, and found it to burn like tinder. The plains were 
covered with these animals as far as the eye could reach, and 
they appeared to be as countless as the stars for multitude. 
The noise proceeding from them was unremitting, and more 
nearly resembled the low growl of a lion in a cage than any 
thing else it could be compared to. They appeared not to 
be sensible of the distant approach of the travellers by the usu- 
al sense of seeing, but seemed only governed by that of smelling. 
If the traveller had "the wind of them," as it is termed, he 
might ap})ro;ich within 30 yards, but from an opposite direc- 
tion a near approach was impossible. For the two succeeding 
days nothing of interest occurred. 

25. Another ti'emendous storm to-night. The wind blew 
a hurricane, breaking the tent poles in two. and prostrating 

11 



OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION 



every tiling before it. The travellers were consequently 
drenched. 

S6. The clothes of every man were saturated with water, 
yet the two companies set off, and soon reached the Arkansas 
river, 40 miles below the Santa Fe crossings. 

28. Reached the crossings this afternoon. The distance 
is computed to be -150 miles from Independence, and one month 
had just been consumed in the journey. Here it became nec- 
essary that the two companies should separate, the larger to 
continue the plain beaten road to Mexico — the other to pene- 
trate the trackless wilderness to the mouth of the Columbia. 
In view of the latter prospect, three of the company became 
discouraged and determined to join the Santa Fe party. They 
were Q. A. Jordan, Chauncey Wood, and young Pritchard. The 
others maintained stout hearts, and responded to the motto of 
their leader 'Oregon or the Grave.' Thus far, since his dread- 
ful accident. Smith had been brought on in the carryall ; but as 
lie was now to part with tliis, it became necessary to provide 
f)ther means for his conveyance. At first a litter was con- 
structed and placed upon two mules; but as it was not properly 
made, it could not be used. Other modes were resorted to, with 
equal ill success ; and as a last resource he was compelled to 
be placed upon his horse, and thus pursue the journey. Every 
step of the animal seemed to rend his vitals, yet he bore it with 
manly firmness. Capt. Farnham duly commiserated his con- 
dition and sought by every means in his power to render him 
more comfortable. Most of the others partook of his spirit ; 
but some there were who looked upon the almost dying man as 
I burden which they would gladly get rid of, and strenuousl}' 
urged his being left with a week's provision and his rifle, either 
to die, as they believed he must, or to regain his health and 
seek other adventures. For the honor of the company this 
proposition was advocated by three only, while the others de- 
termined to stand by, and, if need be, perish with him. They 
waited on him with the utmost fidelity, helping him every few 



12 



OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION 



minutes from his horse, and sitting bv him while he rested or; 
the prairie, and as their companions would thus get some miles 
in advance during the da}-, they would by late travelling gain 
the camp at night. 

The next prominent point after leaving the Santa Fe cross- 
ings on the Arkansas river, is Bent's fort, 160 miles further 
up that stream. The route is along a tolerably distinct wagon 
track, and the}^ reached the fort on the 5th of July, six days 
after leaving the crossings. Here Smith obtained rest and 
good quarters, and in a week was sufficiently^ recovered to re- 
sume the journey with tolerable convenience. On the way, in 
consequence of the mutinous and diabolical spirit manifested 
by a few of the compan}^ growing out of the deplorable condi- 
tion of Smith, Captain Faniham threw up the command, and 
thenceforward abjured all control. Thus they arrived at the 
fort without a leader. The fort is an enclosure of about a quar 
ter of an acre, with several rooms attached to the walls, 
capable of accommodating 100 men. It contains 1000 stand of 
arms and one brass cannon, the force being intended to intimi- 
date the surrounding Indians and keep the hostile in check. 

The Arkansas river is about as wnde as the ^lissouri, and 
the water of the same color, though far less deep and rapid. 

After spending six da3's at the fort, the party prepared 
to leave, when it appeared that the spirit of disaffection, to 
which reference has been made, had resulted in a division of 
the company into two parties. One, and the largest, was com- 
posed of Shortess, Moore, Fletcher, Fash, Kilburn, Yates, Ho- 
n\er, and Cook with Shortess for their leader. The tw'o first 
named had been most instrumental in tlie inhumanity prac- 
tised towards Smith and their separation was a matter of re- 
joicing to his friends. The other was composed of Farnliam, 
Oakley, Smith, Wood, Blair, Kelly and Osa, with Kelly for 
their leader and guide. He was a Kcntuckian, who had been 
in the ^Mountains for eleven years, and who here joined the 
party. Blair had joined at the Santa Fe crossings, and Osa 

n 



OAKLVS OREGON EXPEDITION 



was a Spaniard, who had for some time resided at the fort or 
in the neighborhood. 

Both parties left the fort on the 11th of July, with the 
design of reaching the Columbia river, — Shortess's for Bent 
and Sublette's fort on the south fork of Platte river, 220 miles 
distant, by a plain wagon road, — and Kelly's for Brown's Hole 
in the Rocky Mountains, a route estimated to be 200 miles 
nearer. The tent was left at Bent's, and such a division made 
of the other propert^^ held in common as could be agreed upon. 
This history will detail the progress of Kelly's party, though 
it will be seen that reference is had in the sequel to that of the 
other. 

On leaving the fort the part^^ took only a small quantity 
of flour, with some sugar and coffee, depending, as before, upon 
game for their chief subsistence. The face of the country was 
similar to that before passed over, being nearly destitute of tim- 
ber. At night each man would lie upon the ground within his 
buffalo robe, with his saddle for a pillow, and the heavens for 
a canopy. In a little while they got accustomed to this mode 
of lodging, and suffered no inconvenience from the loss of their 
tent. For nine days they were unable to procure any meat, 
having in this time seen only one antelope and a grisly bear, 
which were too wild to approach within shooting distance of. 
We now resume the diary. 

July 18. At 10 o'cock entered the Rocky Mountains by 
a ravine, and were soon saluted by a tremendous hail storm. 
The heights around were covered w^ith snow, and the atmos- 
]>here indicated a degree of cold about equal to freezing. For 
some nights past, whenever the weather was clear and still, there 
had been sharp frosts. 

19. No game seen to-day, and provisions entirely ex- 
hausted. 

20. Killed a buffalo bull, an antelope, and a mountain hen, 
called by the hunters sage cock. While dressing the buffalo, a 
multitude of others came round, bellowing and pawing as if 

14 



OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION 



they would revenge the murder. The men sprung to their 
horses and guns, expecting the enraged animals would tear 
them to pieces. After awliile, however, tliey retreated. The 
road to-day was equally rugged with that of the two last, and 
the Mountains destitute of trees, save here and there a hem- 
lock, pine, balsam or willow. The latter were generally seen 
on the banks of the streams. 

21. Saw several fresh tracks in the sand, wliich their leader 
and guide (Kelly) pronounced to be those of Indians. As these 
were to have been expected, the event produced no other change 
than to cause the party to keep a better look-out. Encamped 
to-night in a beautiful valley, called Bayou Selard, 28 miles 
from the head of the south fork of the Platte. It is a level 
prairie, 30 miles long and 3 wide, and was covered with a tliick 
growth of flax, which every ^^ear springs up spontaneously'. 

22. Made between 18 and 20 miles, in the course of which 
they crossed a branch of the south fork of Platte. 

23. Crossed the dividing ridge between the stream just 
mentioned and Grand river, the first western water, and empty- 
ing into the Gulf of California. They were consequently upon 
the back bone of the tv^stern continent, and descending towards 
the Pacific ocean. 

26. One of the horses died from poison, by eating, as was 
believed, wild parsnips. Found to-day, the clearest and best 
water they had ever drank. 

28. Killed another buffalo, by which the stock of meat, 
which had been nearly exhausted, was plentifully supplied. 
Camped to-night on one of the branches of the Grand river. 

30. Swam the main branch of Grand river, a stream nearly 
as large as the Illinois, and very rapid. 

31. Very rough traveling to-dav, through and over fallen 
pine timber. Though constant diligence was used, the com- 
pany were unable to overcome more than four miles. 

August 1. Crossed the dividing ridge between Grand and 
little Bear rivers, the lattei' emptying into Green river, one of 

15 



OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION 



the branches of the Columbia. Country exceedingly rough, 
approaching to precipitous. 

2. Met three trappers belonging to a company of ten, who 
had with them their Indian wives and children. Their names 

were Charles Warfield, Burrows, and Ward, all 

from St. Louis. Warfield recognized in Smith an old acquain- 
tance, whom he approached with "How do you do, Mr. Carroll.'* 
I am very glad to see you." — Carroll, alias Smith, took liim 
aside for a few moments, and Warfield was afterwards careful 
to call him Smith. Burrows and Ward, with the wife of one, 
continued with the party four days, during which nothing 
material occurred, except that the party killed an elk, and the 
trappers in one night caught two beaver. 

6. Soon after the parting with the trappers just named, 
met four others (French) at the forks of Bear river. Killed 
to-day two grizzly bears for sport, the flesh being too fat to 
eat. Some of these animals are of enormous weight, reaching, 
as the hunters say, 900 pounds. One killed during the journey, 
a year old, exceeded 600. 

7. First pleasant day since entei'ing the mountains. For 
the last twenty-one, it had either rained, hailed, or snowed on 
each. The antelopes seemed inclined to improve it, and were 
grazing and sporting about in great numbers. Continued down 
Bear river, along its untrodden bank. There was no vestige of 
footsteps, except here and there a buffalo trail, which the partj 
would follow so long as it continued in the proper direction, 
but when it diverged therefrom they would leave it. 

9. The meat was entirely exhausted. Expecting to find 
buffalo wherever they desired, the men had been improvident in 
its use, and now began to entertain fearful forbodings of the 
future. 

13. Arrival at Brown's Hole, the men nearly famished, hav- 
ing been without food for four days. This is a trapper's fort 
in the mountains, on the east branch of Green river, belonging 
to Claig & — — — , and affords shelter and accommodation for 

16 



OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION 



30 men when all are present. All were now out on trapping ex- 
cursions but two, and these were without any provisions except 
(log meat, which they obtained from the Indians. Some Indians 
passing with dogs shortly after, a bargain was stinick for three 
or four, the dogs being valued at $15 apiece, and the articles 
given for them as follows ; powder $4 a pint, vermillion $1 a 
paper of 1^ oz., tobacco $5 a pound, and lead and knives at 
corresponding prices. They found the dog meat excellent, 
much better than our domestic beef and next to buffalo. 

Here the party remained for six days, when, as they were 
preparing to resume their journey, a company of five persons 
appeared in sight, travelling from the west. They proved to 
be a party which had a few weeks previous escorted to Fort 
Hall, in the Nez Perces or Flat Head country, about 300 
miles further, two missionaries, viz. Rev. Messrs. Monger and 
Griffeth with their wives. The party were Paul Richardson, 

(leader,) Dr. Wislizenus, Eugene , Mr. Koontz, and 

Charles Kline. Capt. Richardson had spent two years in the 
Oregon countr}^ had been to the mouth of the Columbia; was 
well acquainted at Fort Vancouver, and had visited the Metho- 
dist Missionary station at Wilhamet. To meet and converse 
with him was therefore a matter of the deepest interest to our 
adventurers. The prosecution of the journey was deferred, 
and all gathered around the speaker to listen to his relation. 
With an air of truth that demanded implicit confidence, he rep- 
resented the country as undesirable in all its aspects. In the 
richest portions, about Vancouver and Wilhamet, not more 
than 15 bushels of wheat could be raised to the acre. The 
rainy season continued five months, and this was followed by 
six months of drought, in consequence of which, neither corn 
nor potatoes ever came to maturity. The ears of the former 
sprouted from the stalk at the ground, and after a sickly 
growth were invariably cut off by the frost, and the latter sel- 
dom exceeded the size of a walnut. In point of health the pic- 
ture was equally gloomy, the Indians labouring under fever 

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OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION 



and ague the year round. These representations were not with- 
out their effect upon the minds of two of the party, Oakley and 
Wood, who determined to abandon the enterprise and return. 

On the second day after the arrival of the jiarty just spoken 
of, they resumed their journey homeward, joined by Oakley 
and Wood. Capt. Richardson, who knew the country well, pro- 
posed taking a route different from that pursued by Kelly, viz. : 
by the way of Bent & Sublett's fort, on the south fork of the 
Platte, and which he represented to be several day's journey 
nearer. 

Leaving Capt. Kelly with Farnham, Smith, Blair, and Osa, 
at Brown's Hole, where they determined to remain till the ar- 
rival of some party bound to Oregon, with which they would 
unite, the homeward bound party set out on the 18th of August 
for the south fork of Platte. For the first five days they were 
witliout food. On the 6th day they killed an elk and subse- 
quently a buffalo, which supplied them till they reached the 
post spoken of. On their way they met with a remarkable ad- 
venture which had nearly cost them their lives. This was their 
coming suddenly upon a Sioux village, containing, as they 
were informed, 1200 lodges; each numbering 9 souls, giving a 
total population of 10,800. Finding it impossible to retreat, 
they yielded themselves prisoners, and were detained three days. 
A council was held to decide whether they should be killed or 
not ; and during its progress, the young Indians, between 12 
and 15 years old, would come up to them, and drawing their 
bows, would shoot the arrows into the ground, looking with 
savage grimaces into the faces of the captives, and crying tab- 
haho (white man,) signifying thereby that their fathers were 
then deciding thus to shoot them. The appearance of 400 
friendly Chians, Avho interposed in their favour, broke up the 
council and saved their lives. A Chian chief immediately came 
to them and advised their instant departure. As they were 
saddling their horses the young Sioux would come around them 
and endeavor to prevent it. To secure their guns they were 

18 



OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION 



compelled to stund firmly upon tlieni, vvliilc three or four of Hk' 
men would keep off the Indians while another was securing the 
saddle on the animal. The old Chians at length came to their 
aid, and when fairly mounted, they pushed on with all the 
speed in their power, outstrip])ing, if purused, their followers. 
No other adventure worth mentioning occurred on the way to 
the Platte, which they reached on the 3d of September. Here 
they found Shortess's party, where they had been 42 days. All 
their horses had been stolen at night by the Indians some time 
previous, while out on a buffalo hunt, and they were unable con- 
sequenth^ to continue their journey. They intended remaining 
there till Mr. Craig went out to Brown's Hole, and would there 
winter. 

After remaining here three days, the homeward bound party 
resumed their journey, and in eight more reached Bent's fort 
on the Arkansas, which Oakley and Wood had left two months 
and three days before. Here they rested two days, and then 
retraced their steps homeward by the route they went out, ex- 
cept that they struck the Missouri line at Westport, 12 miles 
west of Independence. 



Note. — It will be seen from this narrative that Capt. Farnham was left 
at Brown's Hole, in the Rocky Mountains, on the 18th of August. Though 
abandoned by all of his original companions but one, he yet maintained the 
same unyielding firmness, never for once wavering in his purpose of reaching 
"OREGON OR THE GRAVE!" 



•"The original from which this is reprinted is undated, however The 
Peoria Register was published under this name only during the years 1842-1845. 

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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



003 992 928 4 m 



